Varkala in one day: what to see, in what order

The day, in order

1 · Dawn — the North Cliff path empty, the sun behind the cliff; then down to Papanasam at low tide to read the layers.

2 · Morning — Janardanaswamy's courtyard and bells; Sivagiri's samadhi and the temple with windows.

3 · Midday — the tunnel mouth at Sivagiri from the bank; a Kerala lunch in town, not on the cliff.

4 · Afternoon — scooter to Kappil for the spit and a boat from the club, low sun through the palms.

5 · Golden hour — the South Cliff looking north as the café lights come on.

6 · Evening — fish by weight at a cliff café, price asked first; the lamps along the path.

The three you must not miss

The cliff path, end to end. About three kilometres of paved path along the North and South cliffs, cafés on one side and the drop on the other; an hour and a half further north along the cliff top to Edava and Kappil. Dawn for the empty path with the sun behind the cliff; the last hour before sunset from the South Cliff looking north, as the café lights come on. Keep back from unfenced edges, especially after the monsoon. Free · any hour · the helipad headland has the widest horizon and the worst cracks.

Papanasam and the temple. The beach between the cliffs at first light, the rituals at its far end seen from a distance, then up the hill to Janardanaswamy for the courtyard, the banyan and the Dutch bells. Non-Hindus are generally kept out of the sanctum; ask at the gate. Free · temple about 04:00–12:00 and 17:00–20:00 · Arattu in March–April.

Sivagiri. Narayana Guru's mutt on the hill three kilometres inland: the samadhi, the octagonal Sarada temple, two hundred acres of grounds, and on the last two days of the year a pilgrimage in yellow. Morning and late-afternoon openings; closed midday — confirm at the gate. Free · dress modestly · pilgrimage 30 Dec – 1 Jan; Guru Jayanthi August, Samadhi Day September.

Why this order

The cliff is a national geological monument: twenty-odd million years of sand, clay and lignite under a laterite cap, springs falling from its face, sixty-nine cafés within ten metres of its edge. Papanasam below is where ashes are immersed; Janardanaswamy above is two thousand years old by tradition; Sivagiri, three kilometres inland, is where Narayana Guru preached one caste, one religion, one god. The sea is the real danger — swim only between the flags, never at dusk — and the edge the second. Surf October to April; come October to February. The plan puts the big ticket first, while you are fresh and the light is soft, keeps the middle of the day for shade, and saves the one view that needs the low sun for the end.

If you only have the morning

the North Cliff path empty, then The cliff path, end to end properly. Half of Varkala seen well beats all of it seen badly.

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