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Planning · when to go

Best time to visit Varkala, month by month

October – February. The dry season is the only season for the cliff: the path open, the cafés back, surf from October, paragliders from November. December into early January is the crush, and the year's last two days bring the pilgrims in yellow to Sivagiri. February is the same weather with fewer people. June to September is monsoon — cheap rooms, shut shacks, a sea that kills. Our pick: February — dry, the crush gone, the surf still running, and the cliff path yours at dawn.

The season, honestly

Varkala is warm and wet: about 3,100 millimetres of rain a year, most of it in the south-west monsoon from June to September, with north-east showers into November. October to February is the season — dry, the sea calmer, the cafés open. The sea is dangerous from June to September, when Kerala Tourism flags the coast as high-risk, and most of the cliff's shacks shut. The monthly figures below are aggregator averages, not station data.

October to March

Oct: 30° / 23° — north-east showers; cafés reopen; surf season begins

Nov: 31° / 23° — season starts; paragliding from now to March

Dec: 32° / 23° — peak; the crush from the 20th; pilgrims from the 30th

Jan: 32° / 23° — peak season; the Sivagiri pilgrimage ends on the 1st

Feb: 33° / 23° — dry; quieter than December

Mar: 33° / 24° — arattu at the temple; Sivarathri on Ponnumthuruthu

April to September

Apr: 33° / 25° — hot; the sea has taken swimmers in April

May: 33° / 26° — pre-monsoon; green-season rates begin

Jun: 31° / 24° — south-west monsoon; most cliff shacks shut

Jul: 29° / 24° — karkidaka Vavu — Papanasam packed at dawn

Aug: 28° / 23° — wettest; Guru Jayanthi; Onam

Sep: 29° / 24° — samadhi Day; seas still rough

If you can only come in the heat

Start at opening, be back indoors by eleven, and go out again an hour before sunset. The cliff path, end to end at 8am in May is emptier and better than at noon in December — the city's rhythm is the desert's, and it rewards anyone who keeps it.

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