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Planning · two days

Two days in Alleppey: the plan that leaves nothing important out

Two days is Alleppey done properly: the first for the lake, the second for the canals, and a third, if you have it, for the coast and the south. Each day below is ordered by light, not by list — tick as you go.

Day 1 — The lake

Noon — board the houseboat at Punnamada; ask for the certificate and the west-facing mooring.

Afternoon — the Kuttanad canals, not the open lake; a karimeen lunch.

Golden hour — on deck, facing west.

Night — moored; the neighbours' lights and the frogs.

Day 2 — The canals

Morning — check out at nine; the sunrise kayak from Kainakary if you skipped the boat.

Late morning — Champakulam's church, rock cross and snake-boat shed.

Midday — a toddy-shop lunch: fish curry, kappa, duck roast.

Afternoon — the bund roads by bicycle or the Kottayam ferry.

Evening — beach and pier at sunset.

Day 3 — The coast and the south

Dawn — Marari beach as the boats land.

Morning — the Coir Museum at Kalavoor.

Midday — Ambalappuzha and the payasam.

Afternoon — Karumadi's half-Buddha, then Krishnapuram Palace if you're heading south.

Evening — on to Varkala or back to Kochi.

Worth leaving town for

Kottayam by ferry. The ≈ ₹30 state ferry across the lake and through the alphabet blocks — two to three hours, forty stops, the best seat on the water. Kumarakom's bird sanctuary is across from the landing.

Krishnapuram and Alumkadavu. Forty-seven kilometres south: Marthanda Varma's palace with Kerala's largest mural panel, then the Ashtamudi boatyard village that claims the kettuvallam as its own — an hour and a half from Alappuzha.

Mannarasala. The serpent grove at Haripad, 32 km south — tens of thousands of snake images under the trees and a matriarch priestess; Ayilyam in October and November.

Getting there and away

By road from Kochi: Ernakulam is about 55 km — KSRTC buses every ten to twenty minutes, 1½–2 hours, ₹75–86 (AC ₹129). The airport at Nedumbassery is further, 75–85 km: the prepaid counter runs ≈ ₹2,700–3,400 (app cabs cheaper), 1½–2½ hours.

By rail: Alappuzha station, four kilometres from the beach — the Chennai Express, the Kannur and Dhanbad trains, and the Mangaluru–Thiruvananthapuram Vande Bharat stop here; for Bengaluru or Mumbai, change at Ernakulam.

By water: The state ferry from Kottayam (Kodimatha jetty) — four departures a day, about ₹30, two to three hours across the lake. The Alleppey–Kollam tourist boat is seasonal at best (December–March, alternate days) — ask at the jetty.

Keep going

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