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Planning · two days

Two days in Kochi: the plan that leaves nothing important out

Two days is Kochi done properly: the first for fort Kochi, the second for mattancherry and the water, and a third, if you have it, for the harbour's villages. Each day below is ordered by light, not by list — tick as you go.

Day 1 — Fort Kochi

Dawn — the nets in silhouette, from the walkway.

Morning — St Francis, the Dutch Cemetery key, Santa Cruz, the Parade Ground streets.

Midday — lunch at Kashi Art Café or a fish-curry meal.

Afternoon — the Indo-Portuguese Museum, then Fort Kochi beach.

Evening — Kathakali, make-up first; the Pappanji ground at New Year.

Day 2 — Mattancherry and the water

Morning — Bazaar Road's godowns loading, then Jew Town and the synagogue at ten.

Late morning — the Dutch Palace murals.

Midday — Kayees for biryani.

Afternoon — Water Metro to High Court; Marine Drive at sunset.

Evening — dinner in Ernakulam, or the ferry back.

Day 3 — The harbour's villages

Early — Thoppumpady fish auction at half past six.

Morning — Kumbalangi by canoe; the hundred nets, the crab ponds.

Midday — a Kumbalangi village lunch.

Afternoon — the ferry to Vypeen and Cherai beach, or the Muziris circuit at Kodungallur.

Evening — Hill Palace and Tripunithura if the Metro tempts you; otherwise a last rooftop.

Worth leaving town for

Kumbalangi. Fifteen kilometres south: India's first model tourism village — a hundred Chinese nets on the backwater, crab farms, canoes — and, on dark nights in spring, water that can glow blue.

Muziris. Kodungallur, 35 km north: the Pattanam excavation museum, the restored synagogues of Chendamangalam and Paravur, Kottappuram fort, and a mosque that claims to be India's first.

Cherai and Vypeen. The island the flood made, by the ro-ro ferry every fifteen minutes; Cherai's ten-kilometre beach, Pallippuram's 1503 fort, the Puthuvype lighthouse at three.

Getting there and away

By air: Cochin International (COK) at Nedumbassery, about 40 km and 60–90 minutes from Fort Kochi — prepaid taxis (≈ ₹1,250–1,350) and app cabs (≈ ₹600–1,000) in arrivals, or the feeder bus to Aluva Metro and the train south.

By rail: Ernakulam Junction (South) and Ernakulam Town (North) on the mainland; Fort Kochi is a ferry or a forty-minute road hop from either.

By road: Alleppey 55 km / 1½–2 h; Munnar 130 km / 4–4½ h up the Adimali ghat; Kodungallur's Muziris sites 35 km / 1 h.

Keep going

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