Two days in Jaipur: the plan that leaves nothing important out

Day 1 — The grid

Morning — City Palace at opening.

Midday — Jantar Mantar with a guide; it needs one.

Afternoon — Hawa Mahal from inside; entry is around the back.

Late afternoon — Johari and Bapu bazaars, bangle lane last.

Night — thali dinner, then the floodlit Hawa Mahal.

Day 2 — Amber day

Early — Amber Fort before the buses; walk the ramps up.

Mid-morning — the Sheesh Mahal and the match trick.

Midday — Panna Meena ka Kund, then Amer town below.

Afternoon — Jaigarh's ramparts, or back for a siesta.

Sunset — Nahargarh over the pink city.

Day 3 — Craft, or stone. Not both

Either — Bagru and Sanganer block-printing, a half-day south (12 – 32 km).

Or — Chand Baori at Abhaneri, a full day east (95 km, 2 – 2½ hrs each way).

Evening — kathak and folk music in a haveli courtyard.

Not both in one day: that is a 190 km zigzag with a workshop wedged in the middle.

Worth leaving town for

Chand Baori, Abhaneri. Ninety-five kilometres east, two to two and a half hours each way on the Agra road: a stepwell thirteen storeys deep — one of the most staggering built things in India, skipped by most buses. A full day, not a morning.

Bagru & Sanganer. The block-printing towns where every Jaipur textile shop's stock is actually made — workshops, dye vats, drying fields of cloth.

Samode. The painted palace an hour north — durbar-hall splendour without the crowds, and a fine lunch stop.

Getting there and away

By air: Jaipur International (JAI), 12 km south of the walled city — direct flights across India and from the Gulf; ≈30 minutes to the old city, taxi ≈ ₹500–700.

By rail: Delhi ≈4–5 hrs by day trains, Agra ≈4 hrs, Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambore) ≈2 hrs — Jaipur is the best-connected city in the state.

By road: Delhi ≈4–5 hrs by expressway, Agra ≈4 hrs — the Golden Triangle's western corner; Pushkar ≈2.5 hrs when you're ready for quiet.

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